Clinage Glossary of Skin Care Terms
Acne
An inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles of the skin that is marked by the eruption of pimples or pustules, especially on the face.
Age Spots
Once referred to as liver spots, these brown skin discolorations are also not related to age, any more then they are to the liver. The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the characteristic small ones on the hands, arms, chest, and face are caused by sun damage. These are possibly indications of precancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes.
AHA
Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin. AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal.
Allantoin
By-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant.
Antibacterial
Any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria; in the case of skin-care products, particularly the bacteria that cause blemishes.
Anti-Inflammatory
Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness.
Antioxidant
General term for a large group of natural and synthetic ingredients that work to reduce free-radical damage and enviornmental stress on skin. Free-radical damage is what antioxidants are supposed to take care of, either by stopping new damage, or by reversing earlier damage caused by free radicals. And antioxidants can potentially repair damage by allowing healthy cells to proliferate.
Azulene
Chamomile extract used primarily as a coloring agent in cosmetics. It can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Beta-Carotene
Member of the carotenoid family. There are hundreds of carotenoids, including lycopene and lutein. Beta-carotene is a precursor that helps form retinol (vitamin A). It is converted to vitamin A in the liver as needed. Topically, beta-carotene is potentially a good antioxidant and can reduce the effects of sun damage, although this benefit is dose dependent.
Calendula Extract
Extract derived from the plant commonly known as pot marigold.
Cell Turnover
In skin care, the term used to describe the constant shedding of dead skin cells and subsequent replacement with younger cells.
Cetyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. It is not an irritant and is not related to sd alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
Citric Acid
Extract derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline.
Collagen
Collagen is a type of protein found extensively throughout the body. It supports skin, internal organs, muscles, bone, and cartilage. There are more than 25 types of collagen that occur naturally in the body. Collagen works in tandem with elastin to give skin its texture, structure, and appearance. Sun damage (extrinsic aging) and aging (intrinsic aging) causes collagen in the skin to deteriorate. As a cosmetic ingredient, collagen is derived from animal sources, but plant derivatives that act like collagen (pseudo-collagen) are also used. In any form, collagen is a good water-binding agent.
EDTA
Acronym for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, a stabilizer used in cosmetics to prevent ingredients in a given formula from binding with trace elements (particularly minerals) that can exist in water and with other ingredients to cause unwanted product changes to the texture, the odor, and the consistency. The technical term for ingredients that perform this function is chelating agent.
Exfoliation
involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's outermost surface, and has been used for many years to help maintain skin. Exfoliation is involved in the process of all facials, during microdermabrasion or chemical peels at medical spas. Exfoliation can be achieved through mechanical or chemical means.
Follicle
The tiny shaft in the skin through which a hair grows, and sebum is excreted from sebaceous glands to the surface of the skin.
Glycerin
Also called glycerol or glycerine; it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be derived from natural substances by hydrolysis of fats and by fermentation of sugars. It can also be synthetically manufactured. Whether natural or synthetic, glycerin is a humectant and extremely hygroscopic, meaning it readily absorbs water from other sources. So, in part, glycerin works because of its ability to attract water from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) increasing the amount of water in the surface layers of skin. Another aspect of glycerin's benefit is that it is a skin-identical ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin. In that respect it is one of the many substances in skin that help maintain the outer barrier and prevent dryness or scaling.
Glycolic acid (or hydroxyacetic acid)
is the smallest α-hydroxy acid (AHA). This colorless, odorless, and hygroscopic crystalline solid is highly soluble in water. It is used in various skin-care products. a translucent crystalline compound found in sugar cane and sugar beets and unripe grapes.
Glycolic Acid Chemical Peel
The high solubility of glycolic acid and the ease with which it penetrates the skin make it suitable for use in a chemical peel. It can improve the skin's appearance by reducing hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and scarring due to acne. Glycolic acid peels may also be used to remove skin growths of keratin, known as keratosis. Glycolic Peels vary in strength.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Plant-derived thickening agent typically used as a binding agent or emulsifier. Also used (most often in styling products) as a film-forming agent.
Inflammatory
A word that means "causing inflammation." In acne, "inflammatory" is usually used to describe lesions that are inflamed by chemical reactions or bacteria in clogged follicles.
Isopropyl Myristate
Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient.
Lavendar Oil
Widely-used plant that's a member of the mint family. It is primarily a fragrance ingredient.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Derived from citrus fruits (form of vitamin C); Readily utilized by the skin cells, this powerful antioxidant promotes circulation, stimulates collagen and elastin production. a translucent crystalline compound found in sugar cane and sugar beets and unripe grapes.
Melanin
Substance that gives hair and skin its color.
Niacinamide
Also called vitamin B3, niacin, and nicotinic acid, this water-soluble ingredient is stable in the presence of heat and light. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis, niacinamide is a helpful ingredient for addressing skin discolorations.
Noncomedogenic
Not likely to cause comedones.
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Sunscreen agent used to protect skin primarily from the sun's UVB rays.
Papule
An inflammatory comedo that resembles a small, red bump on the skin.
Papulopustular
A type of acne characterized by the presence of papules and pustules.
Parabens
Group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben, that are the most widely used group of preservatives in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. Parabens are believed to cause less irritation than some preservatives.
Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Excessive skin darkening at places where the skin was inflamed.
Propylene Glycol
Along with other glycols and glycerol, this is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics. propylene glycol is used only in the smallest amounts to keep products from melting in high heat or freezing when it is cold. It also helps active ingredients penetrate the skin.
Pustule
An inflammatory comedo that resembles a whitehead with a ring of redness around it.
Quaternium-15
Preservative used in cosmetics.
Retinol
The name for the entire vitamin A molecule. Retinol has value for skin on several fronts: it is a cell-communicating ingredient and antioxidant. Skin cells have a receptor site that is very accepting of retinoic acid, which is a component of retinol. This relationship between retinoic acid and skin cells allows a type of communication in which the cell is told to function normally (that is, not like a damaged or older cell), and it can, to some extent, conform to that request. Retinol cannot communicate with a cell until it has been broken down into retinoic acid. Retinol helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells, provides antioxidant support, and increases the amount of substances that enhance skin's structural elements.
Retinyl Palmitate
Form of vitamin A. It is a combination of retinol (pure vitamin A) and palmitic acid. There is research showing it to be effective as an antioxidant and skin-cell regulator.
Safflower Oil
Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils.
Sebaceous Glands
Glands in the skin that produce an oily substance called sebum--these glands are the sites of acne lesions. Sebaceous glands are attached to hair follicles and are found mostly on the face, neck, back and chest.
Sodium Citrate
Used primarily to control the pH level of a product, this ingredient also has antioxidant and preservative properties.
Stearic Acid
Fatty acid used as an emollient and as an agent to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation.
Sunscreens
Products considered over-the-counter drugs in the United States and as such are strictly regulated by the FDA. Sunscreens provide protection from sunburn and some amount of sun damage.
Talc
Naturally occurring silicate mineral.
Tocopherol
Considered an antioxidant superstar. It is one of the most well-known and researched antioxidants, both when taken orally and when used in skin-care products.
Triethanolamine
Used in cosmetics as a pH balancer.
Urea
Component of urine, although synthetic versions are used in cosmetics. In small amounts urea has good water-binding and exfoliating properties for skin; in larger concentrations it can cause inflammation.
UVA
Ultraviolet A radiation. The sun produces a range of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, of which UVA and UVB affect our skin. UVA radiation creates serious cumulative changes in skin that may be far greater than the sunburn caused by UVB radiation.
Vitamin A
Considered a good antioxidant in some of its various forms, particularly as retinol and retinyl palmitate.
Water
The most widely used cosmetic ingredient; water is almost always listed first on an ingredient label because it is usually the ingredient with the highest concentration.
Whitehead
An acne lesion that forms when oil and skin cells block the opening of a hair follicle. For this reason, whiteheads are called "closed comedomes."
Witch Hazel
Commonly used plant extract that can have potent antioxidant properties.
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